Black Tie Optional

February 3, 2010 Sonny Balani , No comments


Clark Gable, the 1950’s comedian and actor, once posed a question to his audience, “Did you ever get the feeling that the world was a tuxedo and you were a pair of brown shoes?” While he probably wasn’t referring to the modern day black-tie optional event, it seems fitting.

Conventional standards for such an event would suggest either a tuxedo or a simple black suit. However, to make the proper decision, it is necessary to understand the differences between the two styles.

One of the defining characteristics of a tuxedo is that of satin detailing. The jacket lapels, pocket trim, and the out seam of the slacks are always trimmed in satin. Another nuance is that the waistband of the slacks should never be exposed, hence the need for a vest of cummerbund. The details are subtle, yet noticeably sophisticated.

And sophistication is what one ought to strive for at such events. Justifying the need for a tuxedo is simply recognizing the need for a timeless piece of tailored clothing for life’s special occasions. With a seemingly ambiguous dress code for formal events, one certainly doesn’t want to feel like that pair of brown shoes.

Sonny BalaniBlack Tie Optional
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What would you do if you had to choose?

February 3, 2010 Sonny Balani , No comments


While it may seem that our friend Barney’s situation from CBS’s “How I met your Mother” is a little extreme, he does have a point: Nothing suits you like a suit! While most of us probably don’t have to face the heartache of choosing between a woman and our suits, it’s fun to revel in someone else’s decision – especially when it’s done musically! Click here to enjoy Barney’s predicament.

Sonny BalaniWhat would you do if you had to choose?
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Dressing well from the ground up

January 1, 2010 Sonny Balani , No comments


While we certainly agree with Mark Twain when he said “Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence in society,” we believe he may have ignored an important detail: footwear. Like suits, shoes are an investment. Learning how to care for them properly is essential to hosting an exemplary wardrobe.

Caring for shoes ought to be top of mind this time of year. However, it’s not just the snow, rain and slush that cause damage. The majority of the blame can be attributed to the salt used on paved surfaces to melt the ice. While the elements will moisten the shoe, the salt will dry out and crack the leather. Not only is this unsightly, but the salt (evident by white stains near the sole) will considerably shorten the lifespan of your shoes.

The first line of defense for your shoes is to wear a pair of galoshes, also known as shoe rubbers. While this is certainly the least flattering of appearances, it is without question the most preventative of methods. Dependent on your needs, there are a variety of options available.

Yet, we may not always have the foresight, nor the forecast, to predict the weather. If you happen to accidentally find yourself tromping through the slush, you’ll want to try to mitigate the damage.

To do so, simply concoct a mixture of equal parts white vinegar and water. Dampen a cloth with the mixture and gently wipe the leather; the vinegar will help pull the salt to the surface and the cloth will wipe it away. Keep a small spray bottle at home and in the office to remedy situations when they occur. When time permits, polish the shoes according to your normal regiment. And as always, be sure to use cedar shoe trees to help pull the moisture out of the shoe.

Wearing a scuffed and salty shoe is like wearing a wrinkled shirt: It compromises your appearance and your professionalism. So when getting dressed, remember the effort starts from the ground up.

And for purveyors of fine footwear, remember that Balani Custom Clothiers carries shoes from Allen Edmonds. Special order any style through us free of charge – www.allenedmonds.com.

Sonny BalaniDressing well from the ground up
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Spread ’em!

January 1, 2010 Sonny Balani ,


No, we don’t have a warrant, but we do have suspicion. Suspicion that you’re wearing the same collar you did back in high school. Regardless of your motive for change, the New Year requires it. Start off by wrapping something new around your neck: The Spread Collar.

Beginning with terminology, the spread of a shirt simply refers to the distance between the points of the collar. While every collar technically has a spread to it (less the mandarin or stand-up collar), different spreads create different characters. A shirt with longer points and a narrow spread (aka straight point) should make you think of scenes from Goodfellas. While a wide spread collar, with a large gap between the points, should bring you to the floor on the London Stock Exchange. Let’s avoid the roughing up and talk about the latter option.

The Spread Collar is challenging the dominance of the point collar due not only to it’s British aesthetic (pair it with checks to take it to the next level), but also due to it’s ease of wearability. Collars are meant to frame one’s face, and The Spread has a tendency to flatter any facial structure, be it thin or wide.

Along with it’s good-for-anyone appearance, it’s perfectly suited to be worn alongside current trends. A slim tie, narrow lapels, and a tapered suit work just as well with The Spread Collar as does the conservative cut garment. Hold for one small detail: you must tie a Windsor knot!

To complete the look, a larger knot is required with the shirt; the large gap calls for a Windsor’s fullness to soak up the extra space. The perfectly symmetrical triangle of the aforementioned knot is the final detail to tie the look together.

So while it seems contradictory, be sure to frame yourself well in 2010. The Spread Collar can be your new accomplice.

(Psst.. not sure just how to tie a Windsor? Don’t feel guilty – give us a call and we’ll be glad to show you how it’s done the next time you’re in the area)

Sonny BalaniSpread ’em!
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Off the Cuff

December 1, 2009 Sonny Balani , No comments

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As the holidays encroach upon us and the Evites begin to stack up in our inboxes, you may find yourself asking “What should I wear to THAT party?” It only makes sense, for ‘tis the season for sartorial confusion. Is it a formal engagement? A casual gathering? What if I’m underdressed? Fear no more, there is a solution: The French Cuff shirt.

Both diplomatic and debonair, the French cuff is taking a stand in the American market. The folded back cuffs (better known as the Double Cuff across the pond, due to it’s bulkier appearance) are no longer held captive to the executive boardroom or the Groom’s wrist. They’ve also been making untucked appearances with denim and open collared encores with a modern sport coat. It’s precisely because of this versatility the French cuff is becoming a mainstay in the man’s wardrobe.

“Casual Fridays” are getting played out and men are realizing the need for a more professional appearance in the work place. Enter the French cuff. While they’re traditionally dressier, wearing it in an non-traditional, unbuttoned fashion (no tie, 1 or 2 buttons, relaxed) can sneak a touch of formality to your Fridays. Not to mention, this style easily transitions to happy hour martini attire.

The popularity is also embracing the fact that one’s wardrobe can (and should!) reflect your personality; cufflinks are integral part in doing so. With your timepiece acting as the solo accessory, cufflinks offer a certain level of finesse without overcomplicating a look. Whether you’re conservative with simple sterling links or the nautical anchor-wearing type, your choice of cufflink says something about you.

And you don’t even have to mention your yacht.

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Who is the Man in the Gray Flannel Suit?

December 1, 2009 Sonny Balani ,

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While not all of us can carry the same swagger as Gregory Peck, we can certainly dress like it. In the hallmark 1956 film adaptation of Sloan Wilson’s “The Man in the Gray Flannel Suit,” the namesake article of clothing was meant to symbolize the homogenized nature of the business culture. In the 1950’s, everyone owned the gray flannel suit. In 2009, few own it. Which begs the question: who is today’s man in the gray flannel suit?

Much like tweeds and glen plaids, flannels are best left to those with a true appreciation for fine clothing. Functional both in shape and wear, flannel is often reserved for the unpleasantries of fall and winter. However, unlike its older 1950’s predecessor, today’s fabric mills are processing flannels in lighter weights that are perfectly suitable for the climate-controlled office.

All warmth aside, flannels have another surprising advantage in the fall and winter: lighter color. It is typically assumed that only dark colors such as navy, charcoal and blacks are seasonally acceptable. With flannel, that is not the case. The milled, knotty and knobby fabric carries a warmer aesthetic and rich texture that substitutes the need for dark color. While we all look forward to the more bashful colors of spring, flannel lends an opportunity to break away from the dark doldrums early.

While it may not be a beginners fabric, flannel is an excellent consideration for anyone looking to round out their wardrobe essentials.* Once your basics are covered, flannels offset the texture of your everyday suits while offering a break from the monotony of winter. So to answer the question we began with: the man in the gray flannel suit could be you.

*If you’re not sure what wardrobe essentials are right for you, just ask. We’d love to chat with you.

Sonny BalaniWho is the Man in the Gray Flannel Suit?
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Top this Coat

November 3, 2009 Sonny Balani ,

top coatYou see it on the street: shorter, trimmer cut suits. Whether you like them or not is up to you, but one thing is for sure: the fashion industry does. As we buckle down and brace for winter, it doesn’t matter how well your suit fits if it looks like you’re wearing a Snuggie over it.

You know the look I’m talking about. The over sized wool topcoat that comes in any color as long as it’s black. So if you’re liking the trimmer suit, then maybe it’s time you invested in a trimmer cut topcoat to match your taste and physique. This is how to go about it.

First, you’ll want the coat cut like your suit coat: with shape. Forget raglan shoulders and opt for a harder line. It will accentuate a tapered fit. In terms of length, cut it right above the knees. Not only will it make you a bit taller, but it will be easier to manage if you find yourself sitting during your daily commute. Trimmer still? Pinch the waist in

Lastly, be bold and dare for something other than the Model-T black. Think charcoals, navys, even camels. Throw some texture in and opt for a herringbone, tweed, or corduroy. You can even pattern it up and do a pinstripe or windowpane.

The beauty of having a custom coat is that it’s yours to shape up. Peruse a few of the styling options available in our Collection. Or if you’re just sick of being cold, schedule an appointment today to warm up.

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The Need for Tweed

November 3, 2009 Sonny Balani ,

tweedGentlemen don’t wear the same suits year round. After they build their basics, they branch out into more pragmatic pieces for the seasons. Tropical wools, linens, and the like for spring and summer. And more pertinent to this time of year, think of flannels, cashmeres, and tweeds. Heavier weight fabrics aren’t only functional, insofar as they keep you warm, but they also offer a sophisticated aesthetic and story. Consider Tweed.

Originally known as tweel, the Scottish word for twill, it morphed into the more common Tweed over time. Various urban legends suggest why: from a simple misspelling on an order form, to its birthplace near the Tweed River in Scotland. Whatever the case, tweed has been a staple in the gentleman’s wardrobe for decades.

Tweed is a coarse wool in a loose twill weave, making it an exceptionally durable and warm fabric. Originally made for sportsmen, one can stick a nail through it without damaging the integrity of the fabric (feel free to ask us for a demonstration!).

Capable of lasting for decades (literally), you’ll often find sport coats with leather patches in areas that encounter the most wear, especially the elbows. But it’s just not for jackets anymore. Fine purveyors of tweeds, such as Holland & Sherry of Scotland, have been blending finer tweeds with a hand suitable for even a pair of pants. So go ahead and give tweed a try, even if it’s one leg at a time.

Sonny BalaniThe Need for Tweed
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