The 5 Essentials for Fall


While we’ve had a beautiful summer, in case you have forgotten, we live in Chicago where the weather can change from 85° to 45° overnight. With the weather gradually cooling off, it’s time to start thinking about your fall wardrobe. Fall is the perfect time to reintroduce heavy textures, worsted wools and flannels into your everyday attire. Here are 5 wardrobe essentials that are must-haves for this fall.

Custom Sport Coat / Blazer

Adding a sport coat over your shirt and slacks is the easiest way to transition your outfit from summer to fall. Worn with either slacks or a pair of dark denim jeans, these three sport coat options are great for kicking up your wardrobe throughout the fall and winter

  • Chocolate brown with a blue windowpane- Great with a light blue button down and a navy sweater over it.
  • Gray and black micro-houndstooth – Perfect for wearing out at night
  • Solid gray, textured, heavyweight fabric – Extremely versatile and will match almost everything in your wardrobe.

Custom Three-Piece Suit

The fitted three-piece suit is one of this season’s hottest trends. Think Rodger Sterling from Mad Men. Whether a classic navy or bold glen plaid, the addition of a vest, gives you a sophisticated and timeless look for fall – not to mention a little extra warmth. Texture is a great way to get a fresh fall look, pair your three-piece suit with either a knit or textured wool tie.

Custom Overcoat

A classic overcoat is a must-have for every Chicagoan. Texture and color are the two key elements to consider when purchasing an overcoat. Instead of going with a basic black, opt for a dark charcoal. Charcoal is extremely versatile and works well regardless if you’re wearing brown, navy, or black.  The weave of a fabric can change the entire look of an overcoat.  For a classic look, a heavy twill fabric is perfect.  For something more modern, go for a bold houndstooth or a plaid.

Custom Flannel Slacks

Swap out your lightweight wool slacks for a warmer pair of gray, navy or charcoal brown flannel slacks. Flannel is woven wool that is finished by the napping process. Napping raises the fibers of the fabric, giving it a brushed feel, allowing it to retain warmth better than a basic twill. The brushed textured of flannel will guarantee you stay warmer throughout the cooler months.

Scarves

A cashmere scarf is a great way to add color and texture to your wardrobe. It’s also one of the most functional accessories that a man can own. Whether you prefer stripes, plaids, or something a little bolder, a scarf can change the whole dynamic of your outfit.

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How to Style a Custom Suit

One of the best ways to answer this is with a famous quote from Yves Saint-Laurent, “Fashions fade, style is eternal.”

Fashion compared to style is the difference between a leisure suit and a classic three-piece. It’s the difference between a bolo tie and a satin bow tie. Fashion changes seasonally, and has the potential to lose popularity while style is never dated.

Too often, people assume that wearing the latest fashion trends single-handedly gives them style. In actuality, it is better to delicately incorporate the latest trends into your style so that they add value rather than limitations.

As custom clothiers we are constantly working on finding the balance between scale, individual proportions, and what’s in fashion. The most successful styles are the ones that are unique to you but identifiable to others.

For those of you who are fashion enthusiasts, here’s what’s trending.

 

Trim Fit

Say goodbye to double pleats and oversized shoulder pads, because the boxy suit is officially dead. Today’s suits are all about highlighting your shape and accentuating the sleek v-cut look.

To successfully achieve this look, proportion is key. Your jacket should hug the contour of your chest and become narrowest at your waist. For your slacks, opt for a flat front style with a narrow leg. This will compliment the trimness of your jacket.

If you prefer a looser fit, find a jacket that has a slight taper at the waist rather than a boxy straight fit.

 

The Wide Peak Lapel

Deciding between a notch and peak lapel is like deciding between a black or red Ferrari. Neither choice is wrong, but one definitely draws more attention than the other.

The peak lapel is the red Ferrari of lapel styles. Considered to be a modern, European-inspired look, wide peak lapels are less common than the classic notch lapel.

There are, however, a couple downsides to wearing wide peak lapels. The first, not everyone has the right proportions for this particular lapel width. It is better suited for men with broader shoulders and a prominent chest. For those who are narrow up top, take in the width of the lapel and replace it with a semi-peak. This will look better on your build and help prevent your suit from going out of style next season.

 

The Ticket Pocket 

A British staple, the ticket pocket was originally created for equestrians to store money so they wouldn’t have to unbutton their jackets when paying for tolls.

Over time, the ticket pocket became more and more prevalent, and today it is a styling favorite for many high-fashion designers.

Located above the right hip pocket, the ticket pocket is smaller in size and can be sewn on an angle to accentuate the v-cut look of the suit. Typically a bolder look, the ticket pocket is more commonly seen on modern suits.

If you’re not sold on the ticket pocket, you can tone down the look by creating a jetted pocket. The jetted pocket removes the flap and is less noticeable than the traditional ticket pocket.

 

All of the aforementioned fashion trends are great for making a statement with your suit.  More importantly, finding the right balance between what’s in style and what works best for you, makes an even stronger impact.

 

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How to Plan the Perfect Wardrobe for Your Style

Ever look in your closet and wonder what your wardrobe should look like? Does it feel like you are walking into Ari Gold’s closet or does it seem more like Turtle’s?

Your wardrobe should not only represent your personality, it should also be a reflection of your lifestyle. Obviously someone who wears a suit everyday will have a substantially different wardrobe from a person who only wears a suit 4 times a year.

There are four main style categories that most men fall into, The Ted Mosby, the Eric (E) Murphy, the Jack Donaghy, and the Gatsby. Each of these categories vary based upon each man’s lifestyle and concurrently have different wardrobe essentials.

The following categories give a detailed description of what your wardrobe should ultimately look like.

Which category do you fall into?

 

The Ted Mosby (How I Met Your Mother)

Typically someone who falls into the Ted Mosby category works in a business-casual environment where suits are almost never required. This person generally only wears suits for weddings and special events, limiting the need for more than 2 suits in his wardrobe. He will likely utilize slacks, shirts, and sport coats more frequently.

This is what his wardrobe should consist of:

  • 1 Tuxedo
    • Traditional Black Tux
  • 2 – Suits
    • 1 Navy Suit
    • 1 Charcoal Suit
  • 4 – Blazers / Sport coats (Variety is essential)
    • 2 Navy / Charcoal / Black Blazer
    • 2 Patterned sport coats
  • 8 – Pairs of slacks (Repeating once every 1.5 weeks)
    • 4 Varying shades of gray
    • 2 Navy
    • 2 Textured (ie: self-stripe, sharkskin, pin-dot)
  • 12 – Shirts (2 weeks worth of shirts with 2 back-up options)
    • 2 White shirts
    • 5 Solid color shirts
    • 5 Patterned shirts

The Eric (E) Murphy (Entourage)

Primarily wearing suits 1-2 times per week, this guy suits up when he is client facing or for important meetings.  The remaining part of the week he dresses business casually. This lifestyle requires a blend of both formal and casual clothing and should consist of:

  • 1 Tuxedo
    • Traditional Black Tux
  • 4 – Suits (Repeating every 2 weeks)
    • 1 Navy Suit
    • 1 Charcoal Suit
    • 2 Patterned/Texture (ie: Pinstripe, glen plaid, herringbone)
  • 3 – Blazers / Sport coats (Variety is essential)
    • 1 Navy/charcoal blazer
    • 2 Patterned sport coats
  • 5 – Pairs of slacks (Repeating once every 1.5 weeks)
    • 3 Varying shades of gray
    • 1 Navy
    • 1 Texture
  • 12 – Shirts (2 weeks worth of shirts with 5+ matching tie options)
    • 2 White shirts
    • 5 Solid color shirts
    • 5 Patterned shirts

The Jack Donaghy (30 Rock)

Liz Lemon: Why are you wearing a tux?

Jack Donaghy: It’s after six.  What am I, a farmer?

This person wears suits at least 3-5 days a week and rarely dresses business casually. That being said, the Jack Donaghy category requires a more robust wardrobe with a comprehensive blend of suits, a tuxedo, blazers, slacks, and shirts. Mixing and matching shirt and tie combinations is essential for maximizing his wardrobe.  He is prepared for every event.

  • 1 Tuxedo
    • Traditional Black Tux
  • 10 – Suits (Repeating every 2 weeks)
    • 2 Navy Suits (Midnight navy & traditional navy)
    • 3 Gray Suits (Charcoal, medium gray, lighter gray)
    • 5 Patterned/Texture (ie: Pinstripe, glen plaid, herringbone)
  • 2 – Blazers / Sport coats (Variety is essential)
    • 1 Navy/charcoal blazer
    • 1 Patterned sport coats
  • 5 to 7 – Pairs of slacks (Repeating once every 2 weeks)
    • 3 Varying shades of gray
    • 2 Navy
    • 2 Neutral
  • 12 – Shirts (Repeating every 2 weeks with matching ties)
    • 2 White shirts
    • 5 Solid color shirts
    • 5 Patterned shirts

The Gatsby (The Great Gatsby)

His motto – too much isn’t enough. The Gatsby is your quintessential clotheshorse.  He takes all three aforementioned categories and combines them into one gigantic closet. This person’s lifestyle and work environment are far less relevant than his sheer appreciation of clothing.  Whether the event is business casual or formal, the Gatsby has the perfect outfit for every occasion.

  • 2+ – Tuxedos
    • Traditional Black Tux
    • Modern Midnight Navy / Patterned Tux
  • 16+ – Suits
    • 8+ Solid color suits
      • Varying in shades of navy, gray, neutrals
    • 8 +Conservative patterns/textures
      • Varying in style: pinstripe, windowpane, glen plaid, etc.
    • 8+ Bold Patterns/Colors/ Textures
      • Varying in stripe color, heavy patterns, and scale
  • 8+ – Blazers / Sport coats
    • 3+ Navy/charcoal blazer
    • 5+ Patterned sport coats
  • 12+ – Pairs of slacks
    • 8+ Solid colors: tan, gray, black, navy, brown, neutral
    • 4+ Textured
  • 20+ – Shirts
    • 4 White shirts
    • 8 Solid color shirts
    • 8 Patterned shirts

Bottom line, you don’t need to wear a suit everyday to look good, you just need to be prepared for every occasion.

 

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Should I Own a Tuxedo?


Simply put – absolutely, and here’s why:

No matter the time of year, it’s always tuxedo season. In the spring and summer months, it is likely that your mailbox will start to overflow with save the date and wedding invitations. But don’t think tuxedos are only for the nuptial celebrations. In the winter months, you may need a tuxedo at the opera, a formal dinner reception or a gala.  Despite the celebratory occasion, there’s one little annoyance that accompanies these formal affairs – the rental tux.

A tuxedo is fashion’s quintessential symbol of class and power and by renting a tux; you run the risk of compromising that statement. Think about it, do you really want to wear the same outfit that a kid wore to prom the night before?  Remember your prom, and how you treated your tuxedo?  Ick.

Whether you wear a tuxedo regularly or only on occasion, it is more cost effective to invest in a tux rather than rent one. Renting requires you to waste both time and expense for something that doesn’t fit and you don’t get to keep. The advantage of having a tuxedo at your disposal is that you will be prepared for any of those unexpected black tie events.

When making the decision to invest in a custom tuxedo, keep these 3 things in mind: fit, quality, and versatility.

When a tuxedo fits you properly you will look more like James Bond and less like Jim Carrey in Dumb and Dumber.  Having the correct shoulder structure and taper will transform the way your tuxedo will lay.

Investing in a high-quality fabric is an essential part of purchasing a long lasting tuxedo. By going with a higher thread count, your tuxedo will drape better and have more polished look.  A quality wool fabric will also help with wrinkle resistance allowing you you dance all night without regret.

Versatility is key to having a tuxedo that is appropriate for every occasion.  When styling your first custom tux, keep the details simple and classic. Start with a solid black fabric and black satin details. The lapel width shouldn’t be too thin or too wide and your tuxedo shirt should be designed so you have the option to wear it with either a bow tie and studs or a solid black necktie.

By incorporating these 3 things, your tuxedo is guaranteed to last and fit in perfectly for any occasion.

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What Does Your Tie Color Mean?

Get the job.

Close the deal.

Get the girl.

What do these three things have in common?  The right image.

We all know that first impressions can be influenced by what you wear.  Whether conscious or not, people make grandiose assumptions based upon your everyday appearance.

A tie is one of the most influential tools at your disposal.  That’s why you always reach for your lucky tie when you are about to close a deal or why the girl at happy hour playfully touches your tie to show she’s interested.  Your tie makes a powerful statement and its important to know what image you are projecting.

Red

It’s called the power tie for a reason, and by wearing a red tie you are implying that you mean business.  Just like Tiger Woods wears a red shirt to convey dominance, the red tie is a reaffirmation of strength, authority and dominance within the professional world.  For a less aggressive approach, switch out your vibrant red for a softer shade of burgundy.

Yellow/Gold

Yellow is the approachable cousin of the power tie.  While still conveying authority, intelligence and positivity, yellow is the subtle version of a red power tie.  This is the perfect tie to wear for a first interview, because it shows you are confident and not afraid of a challenge.

Blue

Conveying trust, stability and confidence a blue tie is perfect for client facing or public speaking.  That being said, it’s no coincidence that politicians and salesmen are frequently seen in blue ties.  The lighter blue shade is softer and appears more approachable.  A darker shade of blue represents seriousness and matter-of-factness.

Green

This color symbolizes practicality, reliability and implies being down-to-earth. Brighter shades of green will imply that you are balanced, fresh and energetic. For a conventional look, darker shades of green are more appropriate and will imply that you are stable and serious.

Orange

Orange is the wild card of tie colors.  A bright orange tie will imply that you are enthusiastic, open-minded and adventurous.  It is the perfect tie for making a memorable first impression and creating a sense of excitement within the workplace.

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The 5 Men’s Clothing Essentials for Spring

With the weather slowly warming up, now is the perfect time to transition your dull, winter wardrobe into something a little brighter.  Put away the dark colors and heavyweight fabrics and reintroduce a little color into your day-to-day attire. Here are 5 wardrobe essentials we recommend for spring.

The Navy Blazer

A navy blazer is one of the most fundamental pieces in your wardrobe because it is by far the most versatile. Whether you are going to the office, out to dinner, or cruising in your yacht the navy blazer is a great option for just about any occasion. Lighten up a midnight-navy blazer by opting for a brighter British blue fabric instead.  The lighter blue is a great way to introduce vibrant colors into your spring wardrobe.

Buttons will also help transform the look of your blazer. For a modern look, replace the traditional brass buttons for a darker mother of pearl button.  This will transform the style of your blazer from traditional and preppy to fresh and contemporary.

Light Gray Suit

Just as a dark charcoal suit compliments winter, the light gray suit is synonymous with spring. The light gray works perfectly with soft pastels and bold patterned shirts, giving you unlimited versatility within your wardrobe. To finish the look, wear it with chili-colored shoes and a camel colored belt.

The Sport Coat

A patterned sport coat is the easiest way to incorporate color into your wardrobe.  Often made in bold prints, the sport coat blends a myriad of colors in one single jacket.  For those who like a little pop of color, change the lapel buttonhole stitching to match one of the colors in your jacket.  If you’re going for the casual look, pair your sport coat with a patterned button down shirt that ties in one or more of the colors in your jacket.

Cotton Patterned Socks

It’s time to retire your boring wool socks and incorporate a little life into your footwear routine.  The latest trend in menswear is a trim cut slack that (when sitting) highlights your patterned socks.  Now that the weather is warm, add some pep in your step by picking up a pair of V.K. Nagrani’s colorful, cotton socks.

Pastels and Prints (Shirts)

Spring is the perfect time of year to sport your plaids, striped, and checked pattern shirts. When it comes to spring patterns, the bolder the better.  Color, pattern, and texture should all play a part in foundation of your spring wardrobe. So trade out a basic white shirt for a lavender gingham plaid and embrace the brighter side of spring.

 

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How to Protect Your Custom Clothes in Chicago’s Rainy Season

As we settle upon the last few weeks of winter and await the warmer months of spring, we will undoubtedly combat snow, rain, slush and everything in between. The real challenge comes when you’re forced to try and protect your wardrobe from mother nature’s wrath. Listed below are a few items that will help safeguard your wardrobe from head to toe.

The Trench Coat

A great way to protect your custom, wool suit from rain and snow is to invest in a quality trench coat.  From Humphrey Bogart to Dick Tracy, the trench coat has been a quintessential staple in men’s fashion for over 100 years. Origins of the trench coat began during the Boer War for the British military.  The goal was to design a coat that not only repelled water, but also kept the wearer warm and ventilated simultaneously.  Today, the trench serves the same function and for this reason it is one of the most versatile forms of outerwear.  A good tip, is to have your trench coats scotch guarded 1-2 times a year.  This will force any water that comes into contact with your coat to bead off rather than soak in and ruin your suit.

Galoshes 

Also known as slicks or rubbers, these shoe protectors are worn over your dress shoes and are a great way to salvage your shoes from a treacherous walk in the snow.  Sure, we all know that you’re supposed to wear galoshes when its dropping buckets of snow, but what most men don’t realize is that it is more important to wear them on the day the snow has melted.  Despite the absence of snow, the streets leave behind a substantial amount of salt exposing your shoes to a higher risk of cracking and becoming dried out.

Umbrellas

Like any other accessory your umbrella should be an extension of your own personal style.  Aside from keeping you dry, it should be sophisticated and considered a completion of your wardrobe.  Invest in a high quality umbrella that has superb functionality and a signature style.  Davek (yes, we carry them) is known for making top of the line umbrellas that are built to last a lifetime.

Simply by incorporating these weather repellent tools, you’re suits and shoes are guaranteed to last and keep you looking great.  Not to mention they will help transition your wardrobe from season to season.

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How to Take Care of Your Custom Suit

So Fresh and So Clean, Clean

One of the most common questions we are asked at BALANI is how to properly care for a suit.  Your suits from BALANI are an investment, and for this particular investment, longevity is key.  Sure, wear and tear is inevitable, but there are things you can do to help prevent your one-year old suit from looking like it was purchased during the Clinton administration.

First, only dry-clean your suit between 2-4 times a year. Yes, you read that correctly. The chemicals used in dry cleaning can substantially damage your suit as well as shorten its normal lifespan. Instead, have your suits machine steam-pressed regularly by your dry cleaner; which is a 500 degree blast of steam killing all bacteria, removing all odors and releasing all wrinkles. If you’re prone to spilling, have your dry-cleaner spot clean rather than have them dry-clean the entire suit.

Next, hang your suits on a proper suit hanger and scatter cedar blocks throughout your closet to prevent moths from getting into your clothes. Moths eat through fabrics, leaving large holes in your suits. Fortunately, the oil found in cedar is a natural repellent, and will kill off those pesky moths with destructive motives.

Lastly, for the gentlemen who are very particular, invest in a quality made suit brush.  Why bother?  Simply put, brushing your suit after each wear can extend its lifespan by a decade. Made from either synthetic fibers or natural animal hair, brushing removes built-up dust and food particles that can get lodged in your suit causing the wool to break down.

Simply by dry-cleaning less, brushing your suit more, and incorporating cedar blocks into your closet, you will drastically increase the lifespan of your wardrobe. Because let’s face it, no one wants to see their investment go up in flames or get eaten by moths. So be sure to protect your BALANI suits in order to get the maximum return: a lifetime of looking good.


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How to Get the Perfect Shave

Now that Movember is finally over, say goodbye to the creepy Zach Galifianakis facial hair and say hello to a razor and shaving cream. Before you groan in protest, keep in mind that a survey conducted by Schick concluded that 76% of women prefer their man to have a clean-shaven face.
Getting the perfect shave requires the right tools, preparation, and technique. To avoid the classic shaving pitfalls, i.e., razor burn and those pesky ingrown hairs, simply, incorporate the following steps into your daily routine.

Step 1: Shaving Tools and Products

Using a quality razor blade is fundamental for getting a close, clean shave. Whether you prefer 3 blades or 6, make sure that you replace your razor with a fresh one every 2-3 weeks.

Shaving cream is as essential as the razor you use. Make sure your shaving cream has a glycerin base, e.g., Truefiit & Hill 1805 Tub. The glycerin base will help trap moisture and hydrate your skin as you shave.

Step 2: Preparation

Preparation is key. In order to open the pores on your face and soften the hair follicles, always shave after a shower or apply a hot, damp towel to your skin prior to shaving. To avoid nicks and cuts, apply a dime size amount of pre-shaving oil to your face and massage thoroughly into your facial hair.

After you have applied the pre-shaving oil, use a stiff badger-hair brush to apply the shaving cream to your face in a circular motion. This helps retain water and preps the beard by raising the hairs on your face.

Step 3: Shaving Techniques

A razor should always be drawn in the same direction as stubble growth. This is referred to as shaving with the grain of the hair. By doing so, you help prevent ingrown hairs and skin irritation. It is also important that you keep the razor well rinsed, so that the blade doesn’t get clogged.

Start shaving by your sideburns and then work down toward your chin and neck. Make sure your free hand is holding the skin taut while you shave. For the more prominent parts of your face, i.e., chin and jawbone, be sure to use the middle part of the blade.

Once you finish shaving, apply cold water to your skin to close the pores. Finish by lightly patting on an alcohol-free aftershave, e.g., Truefitt & Hill 1805 After Shave splash, to sooth the skin.

By completing these 3 simple steps, you will be sure to get the best and cleanest shave possible. Step up your shaving game, and come to BALANI for Truefitt & Hill’s collection of shaving products and accessories!

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Top Five Things You Should Never Wear with a Custom Suit

While there are a lot of ways to add style and personality to your business attire, there are just some things a man should never wear with a suit. Below are the top five fashion faux pas when it comes to donning a stellar wardrobe. And be sure to post your own items that should never come near your suits on our Facebook page.

5.) Ski jacket. We cringe when a man takes great care to choose the fine fabric, thread color, silk jacket lining, and tie pattern, only to throw on his old coat over it to head into the wintery weather. Guys, the last thing you put on going out the door is the first thing people will notice, and you’re most likely to meet someone new when out and about. Don’t cover up your impeccable sense of style with a coat that doesn’t match what’s underneath

4.) Gym shoes. This should go without saying, but think again when throwing on a pair of sneakers with slacks and a sports coat. They’re made for exactly what their name implies: the gym. If you don’t want to scuff up your dress shoes during the commute, invest in weather-proofing techniques or a nice pair of stylish black boots. And if there’s still some confusion on proper shoe care, check out how to keep your shoes kickin’.

3.) Baseball cap. The go-to baseball cap may work for casual Sunday sports viewing, but leave it with your jeans and t-shirts when dressing for work or going anywhere other than a sports bar. If you crave something fashionable to compliment your suit, go with a more stylish hat like the fedora or invest in a nice pair of sunglasses.

2.) Casual jewelry. Men should tread lightly when it comes to wearing jewelry with a suit. Your best bet is to aim for elegant simplicity: a nice watch and stunning pair of cufflinks. Anything that involves wood, beads, hemp or plastic shouldn’t come anywhere near your suits. If you want to add a little color or character to a neutral suit, look to bold or patterned pocket squares, ties, shirts and vests.

1.) White socks with dress shoes. If your sock drawer contents haven’t changed since college, it’s time to do some shopping. While socks stay invisible much of the time, they can provide a wonderful compliment to the fabrics in your clothing. Flashing a little color or pattern when sitting down shows you’re serious about your style.

 

 

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