The Modern Glen Plaid

Anyone can work the Mad Men look: black suit, white shirt, skinny tie. Then there’s the somewhat edgier pinstripe in the repertoire. But beyond the basics, what else is there? Perhaps it’s time to move into something more advanced: The Modern Glen Plaid.
Let’s start off by thinking about the glen plaid.  Conceptualized in Scotland before the advent of text messaging (sometime during the 1800’s), it’s essentially a check-over-check design that finds a houndstooth pattern where their paths cross.  The classic is best known for it’s black & white pattern, but it’s just that: classic glen plaid.  How can it be made modern?

Color, that’s how. Maintain the same pattern, but re-imagine the color. Start slowly by integrating blue into the design, something as simple as a windowpane. Think purples if you want to move quicker.   A heightened sense of color and pattern will not only make this piece contemporary, but tosses in a bit of versatility to the mix.

Used most often as a sport coat, it’s best kept lean.  Pair it with a charcoal pant for casual Friday. Consider it with a bluer blue pant for a more dapper look.  Dress it down denim. Whatever the situation calls for, the Modern Glen Plaid is sure to add something new to any established wardrobe.

Sonny BalaniThe Modern Glen Plaid
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The Sophisticated Suit

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Sophistication: – “Appealing to or engaging the intellect”

We may think of personalities or palettes in conjunction with the above adjective, but perhaps it’s time to start associating our wardrobe with it as well. That being said, it begs the question: What is a Sophisticated Suit?

It’s one that inspires thought. Consider a charcoal glen plaid with a light blue windowpane. While this may sound eerily similar to the Modern Glen Plaid used for a sport coat, it lacks the heighten sense and bold use of color. The sophistication rests in the subtle dark pattern used for suiting, one that’s un-intimidated by a hint of color.

Although it’s defined by it’s pattern, the charcoal glen plaid can certainly be worn in an uninspired fashion.  In this sense, it serves the function of a solid suit; it’s rather unremarkable.  Yet, proving its worth and versatility, it can be made into an understated look of elegance that engages the intellect.

To accomplish that end, strive to compliment the blue in the suit.  A crisp white shirt with a light blue tie will suffice. Simply wear it with a French blue shirt. Or always be prepared to the amplify the look by exercising a pocket square in the coordinating color; consider designing the suit with a lining and push up pocket square in a complimentary tone.

However you choose to wear the suit, it is one that deserves a place in any well-dressed man’s wardrobe.  It is a small step outside of the basics, yet provides a level of taste sure to appeal to the intellect of any well-dressed man.

Sonny BalaniThe Sophisticated Suit
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The Babe Said it Best

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“The way a team plays as a whole determines its success. You may have the greatest bunch of individual stars in the world, but if they don’t play together, the club won’t be worth a dime.” – Babe Ruth

While the Babe’s advice on teamwork is certainly relevant on the field, it’s not limited to the ballpark. Consider the gentleman’s wardrobe: a closet full of classics is just a closet full of clothes, but learning how to have them work together is the key to building a valuable wardrobe.

While we’re all enamored with All-Star players, we often forget about the consistent players. It’s the players who get on base that win games.  The wardrobe is no different.  Having a big hitting suit in a bolder color or pattern will certainly be a distinguishable look, but it’s not one that can get up to bat often.  The fact that is memorable means it won’t be getting much field time between big games.

Having your well-rounded players that work well together will build your franchise.  While there is nothing overtly exciting about a navy, black, or charcoal suit, they’re the ones that get you through the week.  Assemble a team of basics, and then begin scouting for more remarkable talent.

Lastly, be sure to know your position well.  If you’re uncomfortable in pinstripes, you’re unlikely to wear them often. Understanding your own style is the first step in understanding your wardrobe.  Try a few different styles to figure out where you’re most comfortable, and build upon that.  Before you know it, you’ll be one of the greats.

Sonny BalaniThe Babe Said it Best
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Sport It

Whether it’s box seats with coworkers or a casual dinner with clients, it’s time to realize that boat shoes and a polo just won’t cut it anymore. Then again, there are times when a navy suit just doesn’t cut it. So play it safe this summer with the business casual clutch play: The Sport Coat.
When we say sport coat, we’re not talking about that navy blue blazer (read: brass buttons) that you got two sizes too big just because it was on sale. Today’s sport coats can have more personality; cut it with shape, custom detailing, and in a simple pattern or color. Then consider what to put underneath it.

Under the jacket you’ll need a collared shirt with buttons from top to bottom. That means no t-shirts or polo’s.  Why? You’ll want a dressier shirt underneath in case the sport coat needs to be benched.  Take a swing with color and pattern on this one, or keep it crisp and white. Just be sure to fit it right; it’ll make a statement without saying a word.

Keep it professional by tucking in the shirt, just make sure it’s not into some cotton chino. In fact, ditch cotton all together and opt for dress slacks.  That means a wool pant in a contrasting color.  While the mere mention of wool might make you itch and sweat, be aware that it wicks moisture away better than cotton and can be softer.

To finish it off, consider the shoes. If you can comfortably walk a 5k in them, you’ll probably need something dressier.  Opt for a pair in all leather, in classic black or brown. A thinner, slimmer sole will compliment the modern ensemble. Follow this play by play for the sartorial score at the next company outing.

Sonny BalaniSport It
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Out with the Cold, in with the New

It’s time for change. No, not the political rhetoric type. We’re talking about wardrobe change. Spring’s around the corner so it’s time to get your seasonable wardrobe in line. By now you should be asking “How do I dress for spring?” We have a simple answer and it involves color and weight.
Start with the obvious approach and think lighter colors. Perk up your shirts with something brighter (think hunter green vs. apple green) and make sure your ties follow suit. When considering pattern, take it a step further and reach for a gingham as opposed to that standard check. By using both color and pattern, you’ll compound the effect and be in with the new.

To be out with the cold, take a committed approach and change fabrics altogether. As opposed to wearing the same suits year round, start opting for lighter-weight fabrics for spring and summer. Standard weights range from 8.5-9.5 ounces, while spring and summer weights will be 8 or less. By going lighter in weight, you can go darker in color without looking like you woke up in the wrong season.

Now that’s change we can believe in. Oops, there’s more of that rhetoric…

Sonny BalaniOut with the Cold, in with the New
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The Devil’s in the Details

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Cary Grant’s jacket sleeves were short. Fred Astaire wore his tie as a belt. Jimmy Stewart preferred peak lapels, hacking pockets, and side vents. Although they differed greatly in showmanship, there is a common thread between their personalities: they dressed in the details. Surely their style wasn’t happenstance. So how can today’s man deliberately find his own details?

Consider the traditional navy suit with grey pinstripe.  By coordinating the color of the pinstripe to the button hole stitching and button thread, it takes an ordinary suit to extraordinary.  The same level of detail can also be applied to shirts and slacks as well, in the event a more subtle approach is necessary.

For style that’s just below the surface, look to the inside of your custom suit or sport coat. Jacket linings can be plain, modest, or overtly ostentatious.  Matching their color to a complimentary one within the fabric is one approach. Or continuously using the same lining throughout your collection is another. This detail remains your secret until you choose to expose it.

For the majority, showmanship is not an attribute appreciated in daily dress. Finding subtle details to take ownership of is the first step to personal style; executing those details is the next.

Which begs the question: Where will you find your “Devil in details?”

Sonny BalaniThe Devil’s in the Details
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