custom suits Archives - Page 3 of 3 - BALANI Custom Clothiers

Black Tie Optional

February 3, 2010 Sonny Balani Blog, The Gentleman's Guide No comments

Clark Gable, the 1950’s comedian and actor, once posed a question to his audience, “Did you ever get the feeling that the world was a tuxedo and you were a pair of brown shoes?” While he probably wasn’t referring to the modern day black-tie optional event, it seems fitting.

Conventional standards for such an event would suggest either a tuxedo or a simple black suit. However, to make the proper decision, it is necessary to understand the differences between the two styles.

One of the defining characteristics of a tuxedo is that of satin detailing. The jacket lapels, pocket trim, and the out seam of the slacks are always trimmed in satin. Another nuance is that the waistband of the slacks should never be exposed, hence the need for a vest of cummerbund. The details are subtle, yet noticeably sophisticated.

And sophistication is what one ought to strive for at such events. Justifying the need for a tuxedo is simply recognizing the need for a timeless piece of tailored clothing for life’s special occasions. With a seemingly ambiguous dress code for formal events, one certainly doesn’t want to feel like that pair of brown shoes.

What would you do if you had to choose?

February 3, 2010 Sonny Balani Blog, The Style File No comments

While it may seem that our friend Barney’s situation from CBS’s “How I met your Mother” is a little extreme, he does have a point: Nothing suits you like a suit! While most of us probably don’t have to face the heartache of choosing between a woman and our suits, it’s fun to revel in someone else’s decision – especially when it’s done musically! Click here to enjoy Barney’s predicament.

Who is the Man in the Gray Flannel Suit?

December 1, 2009 Sonny Balani Blog, The Gentleman's Guide

n163000
While not all of us can carry the same swagger as Gregory Peck, we can certainly dress like it. In the hallmark 1956 film adaptation of Sloan Wilson’s “The Man in the Gray Flannel Suit,” the namesake article of clothing was meant to symbolize the homogenized nature of the business culture. In the 1950’s, everyone owned the gray flannel suit. In 2009, few own it. Which begs the question: who is today’s man in the gray flannel suit?

Much like tweeds and glen plaids, flannels are best left to those with a true appreciation for fine clothing. Functional both in shape and wear, flannel is often reserved for the unpleasantries of fall and winter. However, unlike its older 1950’s predecessor, today’s fabric mills are processing flannels in lighter weights that are perfectly suitable for the climate-controlled office.

All warmth aside, flannels have another surprising advantage in the fall and winter: lighter color. It is typically assumed that only dark colors such as navy, charcoal and blacks are seasonally acceptable. With flannel, that is not the case. The milled, knotty and knobby fabric carries a warmer aesthetic and rich texture that substitutes the need for dark color. While we all look forward to the more bashful colors of spring, flannel lends an opportunity to break away from the dark doldrums early.

While it may not be a beginners fabric, flannel is an excellent consideration for anyone looking to round out their wardrobe essentials.* Once your basics are covered, flannels offset the texture of your everyday suits while offering a break from the monotony of winter. So to answer the question we began with: the man in the gray flannel suit could be you.

*If you’re not sure what wardrobe essentials are right for you, just ask. We’d love to chat with you.

The Need for Tweed

November 3, 2009 Sonny Balani Blog, The Gentleman's Guide

tweed Gentlemen don’t wear the same suits year round. After they build their basics, they branch out into more pragmatic pieces for the seasons. Tropical wools, linens, and the like for spring and summer. And more pertinent to this time of year, think of flannels, cashmeres, and tweeds. Heavier weight fabrics aren’t only functional, insofar as they keep you warm, but they also offer a sophisticated aesthetic and story. Consider Tweed.

Originally known as tweel, the Scottish word for twill, it morphed into the more common Tweed over time. Various urban legends suggest why: from a simple misspelling on an order form, to its birthplace near the Tweed River in Scotland. Whatever the case, tweed has been a staple in the gentleman’s wardrobe for decades.

Tweed is a coarse wool in a loose twill weave, making it an exceptionally durable and warm fabric. Originally made for sportsmen, one can stick a nail through it without damaging the integrity of the fabric (feel free to ask us for a demonstration!).

Capable of lasting for decades (literally), you’ll often find sport coats with leather patches in areas that encounter the most wear, especially the elbows. But it’s just not for jackets anymore. Fine purveyors of tweeds, such as Holland & Sherry of Scotland, have been blending finer tweeds with a hand suitable for even a pair of pants. So go ahead and give tweed a try, even if it’s one leg at a time.

Double B’s

October 6, 2009 Sonny Balani Blog, The Style File No comments

167
Who knew recycling was fashionable? When we think of fashion, we think of “newness” or styles we’ve never seen before, but that’s generally not the case. Designers simply put a twist on something old and call it new. Consider this month’s topic: The Double Breasted suit.

Sold in nearly equal numbers to the single-breasted suit prior to World War II, it’s virtually disappeared from the rack. That is until it started popping up again in the likes of GQ and other fashion magazines. So what makes this suit style remarkable the second time around?

First and foremost, consider the shoulder structure. The classic DB, ever the epitome of masculinity, had heavily padded shoulders that broaden the chest and emphasized a V-cut torso. It was also cut rather boxier. Today, you’ll notice far less structure to a shoulder, yet it still maintains a masculine look.

How? The notches of the lapel are placed higher on the jacket and it’s much more fitted through the waist. By creating a longer line from the shoulder to the waist, it emphasizes the V-cut look, albeit through different means. Remember, clothing is all about proportion. So before you design your perfect DB, keep these subtle cues in mind.

Wool & Cashmere

October 6, 2009 Sonny Balani Blog, The Gentleman's Guide No comments

168
Fall is here. Winter is approaching. We know it’s time to start thinking about how to keep warm. Short of bourbon or those nifty hand warmers, we tend to rely on bundling up our bulky coat to get us to work warm. We all know wool keeps us warm, but do you know why?

Start off by thinking of a sheep. What comes to mind? Fluffy. Curly. These are precisely the characteristics that make wool warm. An individual wool fiber, when inspected closely, exhibits crimps which result in the fiber curling. These crimped fibers, when spun into yarn, are bulkier than they would be than if they were simply straight. There is much dead air between the crimped fibers when made into yarn, and it is the air that provides the insulation.

Cashmere on the other hand, is a much finer fabric. And yes it’s more expensive, but there is a reason behind it. The best cashmere comes from remote locations with inclement weather, thus it has better insulating properties than other fibers. The other advantage is that even though it’s warmer, the fabric weighs less. So if you’re sick of the bulk, consider cashmere for your next topcoat.